One of the more anticipated releases of the year trickled into San Francisco last week from Dogfish Head Brewery. Their new concoction, Miles Davis’ Bitches Brew, commemorates the legendary fusion jazz record celebrating its 40th anniversary. Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione was inspired by the innovative album seventeen years ago while plotting an equally non-traditional and creative concept for his brewery. I fell prey to the marketing and media crescendo, but also wondered what kind of beer could live up to the hype and status of such iconic album?
Just a few cases and kegs of this limited offering were distributed to a handful of lucky stores and taprooms in the Bay Area. My opportunity to try it on tap occurred at City Beer Store in San Francisco. The beer is a blend of three separately fermented batches of imperial stout and one batch of honey beer with gesho root. Gesho is a small African bush and its leaves, bark, and roots are used in lieu of hops to create Ethiopian mead called Tej.
The beer was served in a small pokal style glass and appeared black. A tiny golden brown head was resting on top casting overtones of coffee, chocolate, and dark roasted malt typical of an imperial stout. These qualities continued with a mouth feel that was slightly viscous, creamy and surprisingly smooth. I was expecting an overpowering or funky flavored beer, but it was well balanced with the honey only becoming more evident towards the slightly dry finish, which lingered for a long time. Its a strong beer at 9% ABV and I only detected a small hint of alcohol on the back end. The flavors became even more complex and rich as the beer climbed towards room temp. I went back for another glass to savor the moment and plan on seeing how my bottle matures with age.
As for the beers relationship to the Bitches Brew sound, it doesn’t flirt with the schizophrenic feel of the record, which moves between soulful rhythms and a cacophony of drums, keyboards, and spastic horns. If anything, the beer captures the more introspective moments of the album. Instead of drinking it while listening to the record, pair it with a decadent dessert or cigar and it’s a mellow groove ideal for savory contemplation.
I don’t think any beer could live up to the hype that Bitches Brew generated. I’m sure some people have overblown expectations. It’s not mind-altering and doesn’t define a new category, but the levelheaded won’t be disappointed. For naysayers Dogfish Head is probably a victim of its own success, but breweries like musicians can’t be expected to break new ground with every release. Maintaining a high degree of quality is more important to ensure longevity in both businesses and Bitches Brew will keep Dogfish Head near the top of the heap.